Classic Tuscan dish trasformed.

Serves 4

Fresh Manila clams transform this classic Tuscan dish into something extraordinary. As they steam open in white wine, they release a natural broth so deeply flavored with the sea that no additional stock is needed. That liquor, combined with slowly golden-toasted garlic, dissolved anchovies, and red pepper flakes in good olive oil, builds a sauce of remarkable complexity. Butter and lemon stitch everything together into a silky, glossy finish that coats every strand of spaghetti. The clams themselves stay sweet and tender, nestled throughout the pasta like little jewels. Serve with a well-chilled Vermentino, torn ciabatta, and a bitter arugula salad.

Ingredients

Serves 4

For the clams

• 3 pounds fresh Manila clams, scrubbed clean
• 1 cup dry white wine (Pinot Grigio or Vermentino)

For the pasta

• 1 pound spaghetti
• Kosher salt for pasta water

For the sauce

• 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing
• 8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 anchovy fillets (optional but highly recommended)
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• Zest and juice of 1 lemon
• 1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Flaky sea salt to taste

Optional garnish

• Extra drizzle of high-quality extra virgin olive oil
• Pinch of red pepper flakes
• Shaved Pecorino Romano

Directions

1. Place the scrubbed Manila clams in a large bowl of cold salted water for 20 to 30 minutes to purge any sand. Drain and rinse well. Discard any clams that are cracked or do not close when tapped.
2. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Cook spaghetti 2 minutes less than package directions. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water before draining.
3. While pasta cooks, heat olive oil in a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add garlic and cook gently, stirring often, until golden and fragrant, about 3 to 4 minutes. Do not let it brown.
4. Add anchovy fillets and red pepper flakes. Stir and press anchovies until they dissolve completely into the oil, about 1 minute.
5. Raise heat to medium-high. Add the white wine and let it reduce by half, about 2 minutes.
6. Add the clams in a single layer. Cover tightly and steam, shaking the pan occasionally, until all clams have opened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove any clams that do not open and discard them.
7. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the opened clams to a bowl and set aside. Leave all the cooking liquid in the pan.
8. Simmer the clam broth in the pan over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes to concentrate the flavor slightly.
9. Add the drained spaghetti directly to the skillet. Toss vigorously over medium heat, adding reserved pasta water a splash at a time until the sauce is silky and clings to every strand.
10. Remove from heat. Add butter, lemon zest, lemon juice, and parsley. Toss well to combine.
11. Return the clams to the pan and gently fold them in, nestling them throughout the pasta.
12. Taste and adjust with flaky sea salt and black pepper.
13. Plate immediately, finishing each bowl with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of red pepper flakes if desired.

Tips and variations

• Fresh Manila clams are highly perishable, buy them the same day you plan to cook and keep them refrigerated in a bowl covered with a damp cloth until ready to use
• The purging step in salted water is important with fresh clams, it draws out any hidden sand that would otherwise end up in your sauce
• Never cook with a wine you would not drink, the wine flavor concentrates in the sauce so quality matters
• If you prefer a cleaner presentation, remove half the clams from their shells before returning them to the pasta, leaving the rest in the shell for visual appeal
• A splash of pasta water is the key to building the glossy emulsified sauce that makes this dish restaurant-quality
• This dish must be served immediately, the clams toughen on reheating and the pasta will absorb the sauce as it sits
• For a more Tuscan earthiness, add a handful of halved cherry tomatoes to the pan with the garlic and let them blister before adding the wine