Koi move through water the way light moves through glass, bending, scattering, and catching the eye in ways that feel almost accidental. Photographing them is an exercise in patience and timing, a quiet negotiation between us, the water surface, and a fish that has no interest in our composition. The challenges are real. There is glare that flattens the scene, refraction shifts what we see, and a koi that was perfectly positioned a moment ago is already somewhere else. But those same qualities are what make koi photography so rewarding. When the light is right, the polarizer cuts through the surface, and a flash of orange or white drifts into our frame at exactly the right moment, the result is something genuinely alive.

Understanding the challenges

Mastering these three issues unlocks great koi photography.

• Glare and reflection obscure the fish
• Refraction distorts position and depth
• Movement causes motion blur

Gear recommendations

Camera

• Any mirrorless or DSLR with fast autofocus works well
• A smartphone with a good camera can produce excellent results in bright light

Lenses

• 50mm to 100mm range is ideal for overhead pond shooting
• A macro lens works beautifully for detail shots
• Wide angle can work for artistic overhead compositions

Essential Accessories

• Circular polarizing filter (CPL) is the single most important tool for koi photography
• It cuts surface glare dramatically and lets you see into the water clearly
• Lens hood to reduce flare

Camera settings

For sharp, clear shots

• Shutter speed: 1/500s or faster to freeze movement
• ISO: raise it as needed to support that fast shutter
• Aperture: f/5.6 to f/8 gives good depth of field

For artistic motion blur

• Shutter speed: 1/30s to 1/15s captures silky water and streaking color
• Use a tripod or brace yourself firmly

Autofocus

• Use continuous autofocus (AI Servo on Canon, AF-C on Sony/Nikon)
• Track the fish as it moves toward you

Lighting

Best times

• Overcast days are ideal because soft diffused light eliminates harsh reflections
• Early morning and late afternoon golden hour light adds warmth and reduces glare angles
• Avoid midday direct sun, which creates the worst surface reflections

Positioning yourself

• Stand with the sun behind you or to the side
• Avoid having the sky reflected directly in your shooting zone
• Shade the water surface with your own body if needed

Composition tips

• Shoot from directly overhead for graphic, flat compositions that emphasize color and pattern
• Shoot at a low angle near the water surface for a more intimate, immersive perspective
• Use negative space, letting the water fill the frame around the fish
• Capture the moment a fish surfaces or opens its mouth for feeding
• Look for two or three fish interacting or crossing paths
• Include lily pads, rocks, or reflections of surrounding plants for context

Working with the fish

• Visit at feeding time when fish are active near the surface
• Bring food to draw them close and keep them in a defined area
• Move slowly and avoid casting a shadow over the fish, which causes them to dive
• Spend a few minutes just watching movement patterns before you start shooting

Post processing

• Increase clarity and contrast to make colors pop
• Boost saturation selectively on oranges, reds, and whites
• Use a dehaze tool to cut through any remaining water murkiness
• Crop to tighten composition if needed

Creative ideas to try

• Long exposure at dusk to capture light trails from moving fish
• Underwater housing or a waterproof camera for a fish-eye perspective
• Reflections of koi in still water as an abstract composition
• Black and white conversion to emphasize form and pattern over color
• Shoot through a glass pond wall if accessible for a clean, aquarium-style look

©2026 Suzy Mottet bloomhearty.com writing, creation, and design