Tender annual.

Begonias are popular because they offer showy flowers or striking foliage, depending on the type, and many do well in containers, garden beds, and even indoors. The key to success is matching the begonia type to the light and moisture conditions you have.
Main types of begonias
- Wax begonias – Small, bushy, rounded plants
- Often planted in bedding displays or mixed containers
- Leaves are smooth, rounded, and somewhat glossy
- Leaf color is usually green or bronze
- Flowers are usually white, pink, or red
- Roots are fibrous, not tubers or rhizomes
- Compact
- Grown for flowers
- Good for beds, borders, and containers
- Tuberous begonias – big showy flowers and a tuber underground
- Large, dramatic blooms
- Excellent in pots and hanging baskets
- Prefer cooler summer conditions
- Rex begonias – leaves are the main attraction
- Often spiraled, heart-shaped, or asymmetrical
- Dramatic color patterns: silver, purple, pink, burgundy, green, charcoal
- Leaf surfaces may look metallic, velvety, textured, or puckered
- Growth is usually low and mounded
- They grow from rhizomes or shallow creeping stems
- Grown mainly for colorful foliage
- Often kept as houseplants or shade container plants
- Cane and angel wing begonias – tall plant with bamboo-like stems and wing-shaped leaves
- Tall or upright growth
- Distinct jointed stems that resemble canes
- Leaves are often wing-shaped
- Many have silver spots on green leaves
- Flowers hang in clusters
- Common as houseplantsUpright growth
- Attractive leaves and clusters of flowers
- Common indoors
- Rhizomatous begonias – creeping surface stem with decorative leaves
- Usually grown for foliage
- Rhizomes may be visible at the soil line
- Leaves vary a lot in size, color, and texture
- Often lower growing and spreading
- Not as upright as cane begonias
- Not as flower-focused as wax or tuberous begoniasDecorative leaves
- Good indoors or in sheltered shade
- Hiemalis begonias – also called Elatior or Rieger begonias.
- Compact, neat, mounded plants
- Glossy green leaves
- Masses of double or semi-double rose-like flowers
- Thick, somewhat succulent stems
- Usually sold as indoor flowering plants
- Best treated as flowering houseplants rather than bedding begonias
Light
Most begonias prefer bright indirect light or partial shade.
- Outdoors
- Morning sun is usually fine
- Protect from hot afternoon sun
- Indoors
- Place near an east window or a bright filtered south or west window
- Tuberous and rex begonias especially benefit from avoiding harsh direct sun
Too much sun can scorch leaves. Too little light can reduce blooming and make plants leggy.
Soil
Begonias like light, rich, well-drained soil.
- Moisture-retentive but not soggy
- High in organic matter
- Loose enough for roots to breathe
For containers, use a quality potting mix. If growing indoors, adding perlite can improve drainage.
Watering
Begonias like even moisture, but they do not want to sit in wet soil.
- Water when the top layer of soil begins to dry
- Water thoroughly, then let excess drain away
- Reduce watering in cooler weather or during slower growth
- Avoid soggy soil, which can cause root rot
For indoor begonias:
- Water the soil, not the leaves
- Good airflow helps prevent mildew and fungal problems
Humidity and temperature
Most begonias prefer
- Moderate to high humidity
- Temperatures around 60-70 degrees F
They dislike
- Frost
- Cold drafts
- Sudden temperature swings
- Very dry air
If growing indoors in winter, a pebble tray or humidifier can help, especially for rex begonias.
Fertilizer
Feed lightly during active growth.
- Use a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength
- Apply every 2 to 4 weeks in spring and summer
- Reduce or stop feeding in winter for indoor plants slowing down naturally
Planting outdoors in northern gardens
In northern gardens, begonias are generally treated as tender annuals outdoors unless they are brought inside or stored for winter.
- Wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting out
- Choose a sheltered spot protected from strong wind
- Part shade is ideal for most types
For Hiemalis Begonias in pots
They can be outside in summer, but only in a protected location.
Best placement
- Covered porch
- Shaded patio
- Sheltered deck
- Bright shade under an overhang
Routine
- Harden off gradually over 7 to 10 days
- Keep out of hot afternoon sun
- Water when the top 1 inch feels slightly dry
- Feed lightly every 2 to 3 weeks
- Deadhead spent blooms
- Protect from heat waves, pounding rain, and strong wind
Think of a hiemalis begonia as a patio houseplant on summer vacation.
Containers
Begonias often do especially well in pots.
- Use containers with drainage holes
- Do not oversize the pot too much
- Empty saucers after watering
- Refresh potting mix periodically
Hanging baskets are especially good for trailing or tuberous types.
Deadheading and pruning
- Remove spent flowers to encourage more blooming
- Pinch back leggy growth to keep plants fuller
- Trim damaged or yellowing leaves as needed
- For cane begonias, occasional pruning helps shape the plant
Overwintering Begonias
Because winters in Minnesota are far too cold for begonias to survive outdoors, overwintering is important if you want to keep plants from year to year.
Tuberous begonias
These are the easiest outdoor begonias to store dormant.
- Before the first hard frost, stop fertilizing and allow the plant to begin slowing down.
- After a light frost or once the foliage starts yellowing naturally, cut back the stems.
- Lift the tubers gently from pots or garden beds.
- Brush off loose soil and let the tubers dry in a frost-free, airy spot for about 1 to 2 weeks.
- Place dry tubers in a box or paper bag filled with dry peat, vermiculite, sawdust, or similar material.
- Store in a cool, dark, dry place, ideally around 45–55∘F.
- Check them once a month through winter and discard any that become mushy or moldy.
- Start them indoors in late winter or early spring before replanting outside after frost danger passes.
Wax begonias and other fibrous-rooted begonias
These do not store as dormant tubers, so they are usually overwintered as houseplants or by taking cuttings.
- Before nighttime temperatures drop too low, bring healthy plants indoors
- Inspect carefully for insects
- Cut the plant back lightly if needed to make it easier to manage
- Place in bright indirect light
- Water less often than in summer, but do not let the root ball become bone dry
- Avoid overwatering during winter rest
You can also take stem cuttings in late summer or early fall and root them indoors, then grow those on through winter.
Rex, rhizomatous, cane, and angel wing begonias
These are usually kept actively growing indoors.
- Bring them inside well before frost
- Clean leaves and inspect for pests
- Isolate new indoor plants for a week or two if possible
- Give them bright filtered light
- Keep them away from heating vents and cold window glass
- Water when the top of the soil feels slightly dry
- Increase humidity if leaf edges begin browning
Hiemalis Begonias
- Bring indoors early, before chilly nights
- Stop fertilizing before the move
- Inspect and clean for pests
- Transition gradually if possible
- Keep in bright indirect light indoors
- Water less than in summer, allowing slight surface drying
- Remove faded blooms and yellow leaves
- Keep away from heat vents and cold window glass
- Expect some adjustment leaf drop or bud drop
If possible, isolate a returning outdoor plant from other houseplants for 1 to 2 weeks.
Overwintering potted begonias indoors
If your begonias are already in containers, overwintering is often easier.
- Move pots inside before cold nights arrive
- Expect some adjustment leaf drop
- Reduce watering and feeding as growth slows
- Rotate plants occasionally for even light exposure
- Watch for spider mites, mealybugs, and fungal issues
Spring transition back outdoors
Whether stored dormant or kept alive indoors, begonias need a gradual return to outdoor life.
- Resume watering and feeding as new growth begins.
- Harden plants off slowly over 7 to 10 days.
- Start with sheltered shade outdoors.
- Keep them inside during chilly nights.
- Plant out or leave outside full time only after frost danger is completely over.
Common problems
- Yellow leaves
- Often from overwatering
- Sometimes from poor drainage or low light
- Brown crispy edges
- Low humidity or sun scorch
- Powdery mildew or rot
- Poor airflow, wet foliage, overly damp conditions
- Leggy growth
- Not enough light
- Dropped buds
- Stress from inconsistent watering or temperature changes
Propagation
Many begonias are easy to propagate.
- Stem cuttings work well for cane and wax types
- Leaf cuttings are common for rex and some rhizomatous begonias
- Tuberous begonias can be started from tubers each spring
Best basic care rule
If you remember only one thing, remember this – Give begonias bright shade, warm conditions, and moist but well-drained soil.
Keepsakes
Begonias may look very different from one type to another, but once we learn to notice their growth habit, leaves, flowers, and root structure, they become much easier to identify. Compact, glossy wax begonias, showy tuberous begonias, dramatic rex begonias, upright cane types, and creeping rhizomatous forms each have their own distinct traits. Knowing which kind we have helps us give it the right light, water, and winter care, and that is the real key to growing begonias successfully year after year.
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