Pristine wilderness, rugged peaks beckon.

Backpacking in Montana’s majestic mountains unveils a pristine wilderness teeming with rugged beauty. Towering peaks, crystalline lakes, and sprawling meadows create an enchanting backdrop for adventurers. The Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, encompassing over a million acres, offers a captivating escape into untamed nature. As you traverse the Continental Divide, breathtaking vistas unfold, showcasing Montana’s diverse ecosystems. Encounter abundant wildlife, from elk to grizzly bears, in their natural habitat. The Continental Divide Trail beckons with its challenging terrain, rewarding those who conquer its heights with unparalleled panoramas. In this vast expanse, backpackers forge a connection with the untamed spirit of the Montana mountains, leaving an indelible imprint on their souls.

Backpacking in Glacier National Park is a transcendental journey through an alpine wonderland. The park, straddling the U.S.-Canada border, boasts pristine wilderness with glacier-carved landscapes, pristine lakes, and dense forests. Towering peaks, including the iconic Grinnell Glacier, stand sentinel over turquoise lakes reflecting the surrounding splendor. The Highline Trail offers an exhilarating traverse along the Garden Wall, treating hikers to sweeping vistas of glaciated valleys and snow-capped summits.

Wildlife enthusiasts can witness the park’s diverse fauna, from elusive mountain goats to majestic bighorn sheep. Backpackers navigate through pristine meadows adorned with wildflowers, immersing themselves in the park’s ecological richness. The serene beauty of places like Iceberg Lake and Hidden Lake captures the essence of Glacier’s allure. Encounters with resident grizzly bears and the elusive wolverine add an element of adventure to the experience. Glacier National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, invites backpackers to embark on an awe-inspiring odyssey through one of the most breathtaking and ecologically diverse landscapes in North America. Here are a variety starter route options based on number of days you want to be in the backcountry:

1. Three-Day Adventure: Highline Trail to Granite Park Chalet Loop
   • Start at Logan Pass and hike the renowned Highline Trail, offering spectacular views of the Garden Wall and diverse flora.
   • Camp at Granite Park Backcountry Campground or stay at Granite Park Chalet.
   • Descend via The Loop, marveling at expansive vistas and the captivating Haystack Butte.
2. Five-Day Expedition: Northern Circle Loop
   • Embark on the iconic Northern Circle Loop, beginning at Many Glacier and traversing through Ptarmigan Tunnel.
   • Experience the grandeur of Elizabeth Lake and ascend to the serene Belly River Valley.
   • Camp at sites like Fifty Mountain or stay in backcountry chalets such as Granite Park and Sperry.
3. Seven-Day Epic: Continental Divide Traverse
   • Undertake a challenging journey along the Continental Divide Trail, starting at Two Medicine and concluding at Goat Haunt.
   • Explore Dawson Pass, Pitamakan Pass, and the mesmerizing scenery of Two Medicine Lake.
   • Camp at designated backcountry sites and relish the pristine beauty of the remote reaches of Glacier National Park.
4. Two-Week Expedition: Glacier Grand Traverse
   • This two-week backpacking route provides a comprehensive exploration of Glacier National Park, showcasing its diverse ecosystems, pristine wilderness, and iconic landmarks. As with any extended backpacking trip, thorough preparation, including obtaining permits and understanding trail conditions, is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience.
   • Days 1-4: Northern Wilderness
     • Begin at Many Glacier and hike to Grinnell Glacier, immersing yourself in the stunning alpine scenery.
     • Traverse the Ptarmigan Tunnel and explore the captivating valleys surrounding Elizabeth Lake and Redgap Pass.
     • Camp at designated backcountry sites, experiencing the pristine wilderness of the park’s northern reaches.
   • Days 5-7: Belly River Valley
     • Descend into the serene Belly River Valley, camping at locations like Glenns Lake or Elizabeth Lake.
     • Explore the remote reaches of Cosley Lake and Glenns Lake, relishing the solitude of this less-traveled area.
     • Witness diverse wildlife, including moose and bears, in their natural habitat.
   • Days 8-10: Continental Divide Trail
     • Connect to the Continental Divide Trail, hiking through Two Medicine and enjoying the spectacular Dawson and Pitamakan Passes.
     • Camp at designated backcountry sites, experiencing the rugged beauty of the park’s central region.
     • Marvel at the breathtaking views of Two Medicine Lake and the surrounding peaks.
   • Days 11-14: Southern Wilderness
     • Head towards the more remote southern section, exploring the Nyack region and the iconic Nyack Loop.
     • Camp at locations like Oldman Lake and experience the solitude of the Nyack backcountry.
     • Conclude the journey at Goat Haunt, the southern terminus of the park, with an optional boat ride on Waterton Lake.

Planning

Planning a backpacking trip in Glacier National Park requires careful consideration and preparation. Here’s a guide to help you plan a memorable and safe adventure:

1. Check that you are prepared for backpacking in the mountains and have all your backpacking essentials.
2. Research and Permits
   • Familiarize yourself with the park’s regulations, weather conditions, and trail status.
   • Obtain backcountry permits from the National Park Service. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak season.
3. Trail Selection
   • Choose a trail based on your skill level, fitness, and the duration of your trip. Consider iconic routes like the Highline Trail, Northern Circle, or Continental Divide Traverse.
4. Itinerary Planning
   • Plan daily mileage, campsite locations, and potential bail-out points.
   • Consider acclimatization days, allowing time for rest and exploration.
5. Gear Preparation
   • Ensure you have a well-fitted, comfortable backpack and appropriate gear for varying weather conditions.
   • Pack essentials like a reliable tent, sleeping bag, stove, water filtration system, and bear-resistant food storage.
6. Navigation
   • Carry a detailed map and compass. GPS devices can be helpful but shouldn’t replace traditional navigation tools.
   • Familiarize yourself with the trail markers and signs.
7. Safety Measures
   • Understand wildlife safety, especially regarding bears. Carry bear spray and know how to use it.
   • Check trail conditions and park alerts before departure.
8. Leave No Trace
   • Follow Leave No Trace principles to minimize your impact on the environment.
   • Dispose of waste properly and adhere to established campfire regulations.
9. Food and Water
   • Plan your meals and carry lightweight, high-energy food.
   • Identify water sources along your route and carry a reliable water filtration system.
10. Emergency Preparedness
    • Have a basic first aid kit and know basic wilderness first aid.
    • Carry an emergency communication device and inform someone about your itinerary.
11. Weather Preparedness
    • Glacier National Park weather can be unpredictable. Pack layers and be prepared for varying conditions.
    • Check the weather forecast regularly before and during your trip.
12. Transportation
    • Plan how you’ll get to the trailhead and arrange transportation back if needed.
    • Consider the logistics of shuttle services or multiple cars if your route is point-to-point.
13. Experience Level
    • Be honest about your backpacking experience and choose a route that matches your skill level.
    • Consider hiring a guide for a more immersive and educational experience.

By thoroughly planning and preparing for your backpacking trip in Glacier National Park, you’ll enhance your chances of a safe and enjoyable adventure in one of the most stunning wilderness areas in the United States.

Permits

For backpacking in Glacier National Park, you’ll need a backcountry permit. Here’s an overview of the permit process and where to obtain them:

1. Backcountry Permit Types
   • Advance Reservation Permit: This type of permit is obtained through advance reservations. It’s recommended for popular trails and during the peak season (June 15 to September 15).
   • Walk-in Permit: If you’re planning a last-minute trip or prefer flexibility, walk-in permits are available. These are issued on a first-come, first-served basis.
2. Reservation Period
   • Backcountry permit reservations can be made up to 7 months in advance.
3. Reservation Fee
   • There is a non-refundable reservation fee for advance reservations.
4. How to Obtain Permits
   • Permits can be obtained through the park’s official website or by calling the park’s Backcountry Permit Office at (406) 888-7857.
   • Walk-in permits can be obtained at the Backcountry Permit Office in Apgar Village or at the St. Mary Visitor Center.
5. Important Information Needed
   • When obtaining a permit, you’ll need to provide details about your group size, planned route, and campsites. Be prepared with alternative options in case your preferred sites are not available.
6. Seasonal Restrictions
   • Some areas and campsites may have seasonal restrictions, particularly related to wildlife activity. Check for closures and restrictions before planning your trip.
7. Cost
   • The cost of the permit varies, and there may be additional fees for reservation changes or cancellations.
8. Wilderness Camping Regulations
   • Familiarize yourself with Glacier National Park’s wilderness camping regulations, including Leave No Trace principles and specific rules for food storage to prevent wildlife encounters.
9. Group Size Limits
   • There are limits on group sizes, and these may vary depending on the specific trail and campsite.
10. Check Trail Status
    • Before obtaining a permit, check the status of the trails you plan to hike. Some trails may be closed due to weather conditions, maintenance, or other factors.

Remember that Glacier National Park is a popular destination, and obtaining permits in advance is advisable, especially during the peak season. Detailed information on the permitting process, trail conditions, and regulations can be found on the official Glacier National Park website or by contacting the Backcountry Permit Office.

Researching Routes

1. AllTrails
   • AllTrails is a comprehensive platform with user reviews and detailed trail maps. Search for Glacier National Park trails and read reviews from other backpackers: AllTrails
2. Gaia GPS
   • Gaia GPS provides topographic maps and route planning tools. Explore existing routes or plan your own with this app: Gaia GPS
3. Caltopo
   • Caltopo allows you to create custom topographic maps and plan routes. You can print these maps or use them digitally in the field: Caltopo
4. Outdoor Project
   • Outdoor Project offers detailed trail guides, including photos and descriptions. Search for Glacier National Park trails to find valuable information: Outdoor Project
5. Hiking Project
   • Hiking Project is a community-driven platform with trail details and user reviews. Explore routes in the Glacier National Park: Hiking Project

Seasons

Backpacking in Glacier National Park varies significantly by season, each offering its own unique experiences and challenges. Here’s a breakdown of what to expect in each season:

Summer (Late June to Early September)

• Weather: Summer is the most popular backpacking season. Daytime temperatures range from 60°F to 80°F (15°C to 27°C), but temperatures can drop significantly at higher elevations.
• Wildlife: Abundant wildlife, including bears, mountain goats, and bighorn sheep, can be spotted.
• Wildflowers: Alpine meadows burst into bloom with colorful wildflowers.
• Trail Conditions: Most trails are snow-free, and high mountain passes are accessible.

Fall (Late September to Early October)

• Weather: Days are cooler, ranging from 40°F to 60°F (4°C to 15°C). Nights can drop below freezing.
• Foliage: Fall foliage is stunning, with golden larch trees and vibrant colors in the lower elevations.
• Less Crowded: Crowds diminish compared to summer, providing a quieter experience.
• Weather Variability: Be prepared for sudden weather changes, and some higher elevation trails may become snow-covered.

Early Season (Late May to Early June)

• Weather: Late spring sees melting snow, with daytime temperatures ranging from 40°F to 60°F (4°C to 15°C).
• Snow Melt: Some trails may be impassable due to lingering snow. Creeks and rivers can be swollen with snowmelt, making crossings challenging.
• Limited Services: Visitor centers and amenities may have limited availability.
• Wildlife Activity: Bears are active during this time, so bear safety measures are crucial.

Late Season (Mid-September Onward)

• Weather: Similar to early fall, with cooler temperatures and potential for freezing nights.
• Closing Facilities: Some facilities and services may close after Labor Day.
• Limited Shuttle Services: Shuttle services may have reduced schedules or cease operations in late September.

Winter (October to April)

• Snow Cover: Winter backpacking is for experienced and well-equipped individuals. Many trails are snow-covered and may require snowshoes or skis.
• Avalanche Risk: Be aware of avalanche risk, especially in steep terrain.
• Limited Access: Many park facilities close, and only limited access is available. Winter camping is restricted.

Before planning a backpacking trip, check trail conditions, weather forecasts, and park alerts. Be prepared for variable conditions, carry essential gear, and follow Leave No Trace principles to minimize your impact on the environment. Additionally, obtaining permits is crucial, especially during the peak season.

Trail Conditions

Checking trail conditions is crucial for a safe and enjoyable backpacking experience. Here are some websites that you can use to stay updated on trail conditions:

1. AllTrails
   • AllTrails is a popular platform where users share trail reviews, conditions, and photos. It also provides information on trail length, difficulty, and elevation gain.
2. National Park Service (NPS) Websites
   • If you’re planning to backpack in a national park, visit the specific park’s official website. For example, the National Park Service website offers trail condition updates for parks across the United States.
3. US Forest Service (USFS) Websites
   • The US Forest Service manages many national forests, including those with trails in mountainous regions. Check the specific forest’s website for trail conditions and alerts.
4. Mountain Forecast
   • Mountain Forecast provides detailed weather forecasts for mountainous areas, including temperature, wind, and precipitation. It’s helpful for assessing the conditions you might encounter on the trail.
5. NOAA Weather
   • The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) website offers up-to-date weather forecasts. Enter the specific location or park name to get detailed information.
6. CalTopo
   • CalTopo is a mapping platform that allows you to create custom maps with real-time weather overlays, helping you visualize trail conditions.
7. Trailhead Websites
   • Some trailheads have their own websites or pages managed by local organizations. For example, if you’re hiking in a state park or a specific trail network, check for trail condition updates on the official website.
8. Local Ranger Stations
   • Contacting local ranger stations directly is one of the most reliable ways to get the latest information on trail conditions. They can provide insights into current conditions, closures, and any potential hazards.

Remember that trail conditions can change rapidly, especially in mountainous terrain. Utilize a combination of these resources for the most accurate and up-to-date information before embarking on your backpacking trip.

Access Points and Route Differences

Glacier National Park offers numerous access points and diverse backpacking routes, each providing a unique experience. Here are some notable access points and the differences in the routes they offer:

1. Many Glacier
   • Access Point: Located on the east side of the park.
   • Routes
     • Northern Circle Loop: A classic route that circumnavigates the northern part of the park, passing through scenic landscapes like Ptarmigan Tunnel and Elizabeth Lake.
     • Grinnell Glacier: A popular day hike or overnight trip leading to stunning views of the Grinnell Glacier and Upper Grinnell Lake.
2. Logan Pass
   • Access Point: On the Continental Divide, along the Going-to-the-Sun Road.
   • Routes
     • Highline Trail: A breathtaking ridge trail with panoramic views of the park, leading to Granite Park Chalet and potentially connecting to the Loop and Swiftcurrent Pass.
3. Two Medicine
   • Access Point: Located on the southeast side of the park.
   • Routes
     • Dawson Pass/Pitamakan Pass Loop: A challenging loop offering stunning views of Two Medicine Lake, Upper Two Medicine Lake, and the surrounding mountains.
     • Continental Divide Trail: Access to the southern stretches of the park, providing a connection to the Nyack region.
4. Two Medicine – Many Glacier Shuttle
   • Shuttle Option: A shuttle boat service operates between Two Medicine and Many Glacier, allowing for point-to-point hikes.
   • Routes
     • Depending on the chosen route, hikers can incorporate the shuttle service to create longer, one-way hikes.
5. Two-Way Shuttle Routes
   • Routes
     • Utilize the park’s shuttle system to create multi-day hikes that start and end at different trailheads. For example, starting at Logan Pass and ending at Many Glacier.
6. Nyack Loop
   • Access Point: Accessed via the southern entrance of the park.
   • Routes
     • Nyack Loop provides a more remote and less-traveled option, featuring the Nyack backcountry and connecting to the southern parts of the park.
7. Waterton Valley
   • Access Point: In the Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada (connected to Glacier through the International Peace Park).
   • Routes
     • Crypt Lake Trail: While not a traditional backpacking route, Crypt Lake Trail offers a challenging day hike with boat access.

When planning a backpacking trip, consider the distance, elevation gain, and difficulty level of each route. The park’s diverse landscapes ensure there’s a route suitable for different skill levels and preferences, whether you seek alpine scenery, lakeside camping, or remote wilderness experiences. Always check trail conditions, obtain necessary permits, and follow Leave No Trace principles for a safe and enjoyable adventure.

Getting There

Getting to Glacier National Park involves considering the park’s various access points and trailheads, which are scattered throughout the region. The park is located in northwest Montana, and there are several primary entry points. Here’s a guide to getting to some key access points and trailheads:

1. West Glacier

• Closest Town: West Glacier is near the town of Columbia Falls.
• Access: Via U.S. Highway 2.
• Major Trailheads
  • Trail of the Cedars / Avalanche Lake Trail
  • The Loop / Highline Trail
• Gateway Airport: Glacier Park International Airport (FCA) is the closest airport.

2. Apgar Village

• Closest Town: Apgar Village is near the town of West Glacier.
• Access: Via U.S. Highway 2 or the Going-to-the-Sun Road.
• Major Trailheads
  • Lake McDonald Trailhead
  • Sperry Chalet Trailhead

3. Many Glacier

• Closest Town: St. Mary is the nearest town.
• Access: Via the Going-to-the-Sun Road.
• Major Trailheads
  • Iceberg Lake Trailhead
  • Grinnell Glacier Trailhead
• Gateway Airport: Glacier Park International Airport (FCA) or Great Falls International Airport (GTF).

4. Two Medicine

• Closest Town: East Glacier Park Village.
• Access: Via U.S. Highway 2 and Montana Highway 49.
• Major Trailheads
  • Two Medicine Lake Trailhead
  • Dawson Pass/Pitamakan Pass Loop
• Gateway Airport: Great Falls International Airport (GTF).

5. St. Mary

• Closest Town: St. Mary.
• Access: Via U.S. Highway 89 and the Going-to-the-Sun Road.
• Major Trailheads
  • St. Mary Falls Trailhead
  • Gunsight Pass Trailhead
• Gateway Airport: Glacier Park International Airport (FCA) or Great Falls International Airport (GTF).

6. Two-Way Shuttle Routes

• Options
  • The park offers shuttle services on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, allowing you to create multi-day hikes that start and end at different trailheads.

7. Waterton Lakes National Park (Canada)

• Access: If you’re entering from the Canadian side, Waterton Lakes National Park is connected to Glacier National Park.
• Major Trailheads
  • Crypt Lake Trailhead

Important Tips:

• Depending on your location and the access point, you may need to drive through the park or around its perimeter.
• Check for road and trail closures, especially considering the seasonal closure of the Going-to-the-Sun Road during winter.
• Plan your transportation and consider shuttle options if you’re planning point-to-point hikes.

Always check road conditions, especially considering the mountainous terrain, and plan accordingly. Be aware of park regulations, obtain necessary permits, and plan for a safe and enjoyable trip.

Books For Trip Research

There are several books that can be helpful for planning and enhancing your backpacking experience in Glacier National Park. Whether you’re looking for trail guides, inspirational stories, or in-depth information about the park, here are some recommendations:

1. “Hiking Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks: A Guide to the Parks’ Greatest Hiking Adventures” by Erik Molvar
   • This comprehensive guidebook provides detailed information on various trails in both Glacier National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park. It includes trail descriptions, difficulty levels, and maps.
2. “The Complete Guidebook to Glacier National Park” by Lisa Gollin Evans
   • A thorough guidebook covering the history, geology, flora, and fauna of Glacier National Park. It also includes detailed information on hiking trails, campgrounds, and activities.
3. “Wilderness Ranger Cookbook: A Collection of Backcountry Recipes by Bureau of Land Management, Forest Service, National Park Service, and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Wilderness Rangers” by Jennifer Hamilton
   • A fun addition to your reading list, this cookbook features recipes from wilderness rangers, adding a culinary angle to your backpacking preparations.